Wednesday May 19, 2010

Ah, beautiful blue skies. Temp is 47 degrees, but it is expected to reach 65 today in Capitol Reef National Park. I have been reading about this lesser known park, trying to figure out how the geology is different from other parks we have already visited. The Grand Canyon had crevasses and canyons and vistas that went for miles. Zion had walls that went straight up and offered a river and small pools of water. Bryce Canyon had its hoodoos and fairies and sandstone monoliths. What new geological delight could be found at Capitol Reef? And by the way, how did something not even remotely near a capitol, be called Capitol Reef?

Dennis took geology in college but I was never a devotee of rocks. Have you ever heard of a waterpocket fold? If you are like me and have no idea, the National Park Service describes it as a wrinkle in the Earth’s surface. They also explain it as a giant buckle in the Earth’s crust that stretches across south-central Utah. The same force that created the Colorado Plateau caused this vast warping of rock, created 65 million years ago.

Capitol Reef preserves the fold and the eroded jumble of rocks, cliffs and canyons. When you drive through the Park, you think about the Earth after a colossal earthquake. While there are no skyscrapers here, there is still evidence that a major eruption caused things to fall, crack and tip.

Capitol Reef is named for a particularly colorful section of the fold where rounded Navajo sandstone forms capitol-like domes and sheer cliffs.

We stopped, as always, in the Visitors’ Center to get the skinny on the Park. It is not our intent to spend an entire day here, as we want to move towards Arches National Park while it is still early. The friendly park ranger gave us the lowdown, including information about a 20 mile round trip scenic drive. One of the “highlights” of the drive is a stop at the Gifford House, which sells homemade bread, pics and scones. Since we didn’t have breakfast yet, this sounds like a real winner. We begin the trek down the road and drive along some old orchards. In the late 1800’s the Mormons had a settlement in this area, called “Fruita”. It was so named because of the ground that provided nourishment for pear, peach, apple, apricot and cherry trees. Heirloom varieties are still grown here and if you are here during harvest time you can eat all you want while walking in the orchards and pay for whatever you pick to take with you. What a deal. The trees created a beautiful addition to some pictures of the rock formations. The morning light created glistening trees.

At the Gifford House we each picked out a scone and then purchased a small pie for dessert tonight. The pies are really individual small pies but if we split this one, then all the calories will fall out and we won’t have to worry. Right.

The scenic drive is a somewhat rough road and we can hear the dishes clanging in the cupboards and the wastebasket has begun to roam around the motor home. Good thing it is empty. We stop to take some shots and I find five different flowers that are in full bloom. Beautiful. We follow the road until the pavement ends. There is a parking lot and an opportunity to photograph one of the parks geological delights: the Egyptian Temple. We now have to decide if we are going to risk driving down the remaining portion of the road, which has deteriorated, into a rough dirt road. We have been told that these last couple miles are the best and that the road drives through a rocky gorge. Oh, what the heck, let’s go. In the first quarter mile, we have to cross a somewhat wet area. Not only is it wet; it is bumpy. Too late to turn around. There is no room. The only alternative to moving forward is to back up the vehicle. Not a good idea. Forge ahead. Talk about twists and turns! There is barely enough room for cars to pass each other. Rocks that appear to have tumbled are at the side of the road. When I say “rocks”, I am talking 20 foot rocks. You look up and see teetering boulders, cracked monoliths and you wonder, “When did they fall? Could one fall on us today?” There would be no ducking. I’m not talking about the “falling rock” signs you see along modern highways. I am talking about a 20-foot wide road traversing through massive rock formations. It doesn’t seem to bother Dennis a bit, but I must confess that it made me more than a little anxious. I can stand on the edge of a cliff where a 2,000-foot drop is but a step away. That doesn’t bother me because I know that unless I take a misstep, I am perfectly safe. Here, I am at the mercy of the rock gods. What if the vibration of the motor home shook the rocks or what if ….STOP IT! I keep looking for Fred Flintstone and Barney Rubble. The Slate Rock and Gravel Company must be out here somewhere! We get some great pictures through the windshield and by getting out of the motor home. We see a wonderful angle for the “Golden Throne.” We finally emerge from the gorge and find a trailhead with lots of cars…no motor homes… but lots of cars. Lots of Subarus. Hikers must love them like the commercials on television claim.

We wind our way back through the gorge and then back up the scenic drive. There is a great shot of a barn near the orchards we spot on the way back. We get on the main highway, Scenic Byway 24. Along the way, we catch the old Fruita Schoolhouse, the Capitol Dome and a Petroglyph display. We also see the Fremont River, winding down from Capitol Dome and some mule deer grazing.

Once leaving the Park, we continue east on Byway 24 to the town of Hanksville. We stopped in the Bull Mountain Market for some groceries and then head northeast towards Arches National Park. We stop for lunch on the side of the road overlooking some stunning vistas.

We hopped on I-70 (felt weird to be on a wide open highway) for 30 miles. We head south for 25 miles towards Moab Utah. Moab is the hub that was given life through its proximity to Arches National Park. Every hotel chain, fast food chain and lots of mom and pop restaurants dot the main drag. We stopped in the Park to get the lowdown on transportation, sights to see, etc. We wanted to camp in the Park but no campsites were available by the time we got there (3:00) so we found a campground outside the park.

Now, only the women reading this can appreciate my next sentence. I asked the clerk at the registration desk in the RV park if there was a nail place close by as it looked like lots of things were within walking distance to the campground. She said there was and gave me directions. Dennis wanted to take a nap anyway, so why not? It has been three weeks since I had my nails done (guys, not the kind you hammer) and it showed. Hallelujah!

We study the Arches map and plot our strategy for tomorrow. Even though we are both somewhat suffering from “rock overload”, we are looking forward to this gem.

Tuesday May 18,2010

We were awakened by heavy rain about 5 AM. The bad thing is that it woke us up; the good thing is that it might be over by the time we get to Bryce and want to take pictures. We ended up staying in the little town of Hatch Utah, population under 100. There was a general store, two restaurants, one gas station and a mighty fine campground. It was the first time we had grass on our campsite since Springfield Illinois. Leaving town we snapped a shot of a collector’s store, called “Mugwumps”. This looks like a hoarder who turned an illness into a business.

We drove about 25 miles to Bryce Canyon National Park. Along the way we drove on Scenic Byway 12 through the Dixie National Forest and what is referred to as the Red Canyon. This was an appetizer for what we would see today. Reddish yellow spires rise up and beg to have their picture taken. We oblige. A guy from Berrien Springs Michigan strikes up a conversation with us after noting our license plate. Funny; in Michigan we wouldn’t even give each other a second glance but in the wide-open spaces of Utah we are friends.

It is cold, windy and threatening to rain again. Not good.

Along Scenic Byway 12, which is recognized as an All American Road, we encounter two short “tunnels”. On the edge of a mountain, a passageway large enough to handle two vehicles was constructed. Not more than 30 feet from end to end, the tunnels add character to the roadway. This road has only been paved since 1985. Dennis and I know several photographers over the years that photographed this area in the 60’s and 70’s and now we have greater respect for their passion to get the ultimate picture.

We stopped again and ate breakfast in the motor home before entering the Park. The staff at the Visitors’ Center is very helpful and explains the spots in the Park that are part of the Amphitheater Region. This is the section that is best known and most accessible. It is our intention to drive the 18-mile drive through the park and stop at all 12 stopping points. There is an iconic shot that Dennis wants to capture. We ask the ranger to tell us on which trail it can be found. It is located on the Navajo Trail BUT that section of the trail is closed due to falling rock. Bummer.

When you enter the Park and pick up one of the newspapers that details the park experience, you read about what to see, what to do and a map is always provided to help locate places and services. Bryce Canyon is no exception. This booklet included an article entitled, “Death at Bryce Canyon”. Gulp. It read more like a “Letterman Top 10 Reasons” routine. In case you are “dying” to know, the top ten reasons are:

#10 Unsafe Driving
# 9 Climbing/Skiing off the rim
# 8 Feeding animals
# 7 Ignoring extreme weather
# 6 Dehydration
# 5 Leaving the trail
# 4 Over-exertion
# 3 Bad choice of footwear
# 2 Bad choice of footwear
# 1 Bad choice of footwear

No, that is not a typo. Wearing sandals, and street shoes don’t cut it on the narrow and sometimes icy trails.

Bryce Canyon technically is not a canyon. It takes water erosion from flowing water to be a canyon. The spires and pinnacles were formed from water in the form of rain and snow. The naturally acidic water melts the limestone, forming the unusual shapes.

Our first stop is Sunset Point. Magnificent. Off of this trail is the Navajo Loop that we wanted to hike. I walked as far as I could before barriers stopped me. It was a severe decline with lots of switchbacks. I knew it would be tough to come back up. All around me were the infamous spires, but in Bryce Canyon they are called “Hoodoos”. The definition of a hoodoo is a natural column of rock in Western North America often in fantastic form. That describes this scene and most the scenes today. The climb back up was tough, I will admit. We are already at 8,100 ft and that makes the breathing tougher.

We photograph places called Fairy Land, Agua Canyon, Bryce Point, Inspiration Point, Rainbow Point, Farview Point and six other spots. We spent about five hours, enjoying every stop, despite the cold temperature and wind. We would get occasional blasts of sunshine and we would be ready with the cameras. Had we not had these windows, we would stay the night and hope for better weather tomorrow. We ascended to 9,100 feet.

At Bryce Point, two Japanese travelers who were with an American guide started squealing when it began to snow! Here they had stupendous vistas before them and they were like kids when the white stuff started falling. The snow didn’t stick (although there is still snow in the park). At one point, Dennis had a chance to play with snow. Okay, we went to Florida to avoid this white stuff. Is this a bad joke? It is May 18th!

We saw mule deer and pronghorns on our trip today. Although a pronghorn looks like an antelope, they technically aren’t even related. They can run up to 58 miles per hour, second only to the Cheetah. Their eyes are like 8X binoculars and their field of vision is 320 degrees! Talk about eyes behind your head! The Park also has its own version of Mearcat Manor with a large prairie dog population.

Upon leaving the park, we traveled over 100 miles on the Scenic Byway 12. It was a breathtaking ride. We had ups and downs, winding and twisting and significant temperature changes. We had grades as severe as 10%. That’s steep. At the peaks we had 36 degrees. At the lower elevations, we had 49.

Our next destination is Capitol Reef National Park. It is on the Waterpocket Fold of the Earth, a 100-mile long “wrinkle” in the Earth’s crust. Should be interesting.

Monday May 17, 2010

Zion National Park has got to be the most organized and well-signed park in the US. Everything is marked clearly. There is a free shuttle (to minimize Park traffic) that picks people up in the nearby town of Springdale. It stops at every hotel, inn and campground along a two-mile stretch and deposits the passengers at the Visitors’ Center in the Park. Our final destination for today was going to be east of the Park, so it made sense for us to drive in, rather than backtrack later. When we came to the fee station area, we had to buy a “ticket” for a mountain tunnel through which we would have to travel after we explored Zion today. The tunnel is 1.1 miles long and is a semi-circle style opening. That means that its highest point would be in the middle and the sides would be significantly shorter. We knew this last night and got out our tape measure. We could be no wider than 7 feet 10 inches. The tunnel is designed for two-way traffic, so width matters. We failed the test as we were 8 feet 4 inches, including our side view mirrors. By purchasing a ticket, it would entitle us to a one-way drive through the tunnel. Traffic would be held at the other side until we came through. We’ll worry about that later.

We park the motor home at the Visitors’ Center and head for the shuttle. The shuttle will take us to the hot spots in the Park. Shuttle buses run every eight to ten minutes, which is even better than the Grand Canyon. Each shuttle stop drops you off near hiking trails and identified viewing areas. The buses at Zion are double tandem and hold large numbers of people. They actually have a greater capacity than the Grand Canyon.

Off we go. We decide to take the shuttle till the end and get off on the last stop, working our way back. It is still pretty early and the sun is not high in the sky so there are still significant shadows on the monoliths. It’s a bit chilly too, at 59 degrees. The trick to being in these places is layers. When we board the bus we note that there are some serious hikers in this park. They have serious backpacks, hiking boots and walking poles. We look at each other, wearing our tennis shoes and carrying insignificant backpacks. We look like a couple of rookies. As in the Grand Canyon, we hear multiple languages. There’s also two girls who are apparently camping with a large group from the School of Charleston, a pricey college in South Carolina. They probably could have opted for a shopping trip to New York City or a laid back vacation at the beach. Gotta give them credit. They look like they are up for the challenge, in fact as I overheard them talking, they were discussing rock formations. I am impressed.

Our first stop is called “Temple of Sinawava”. It offers an easy 1.5-mile trail that runs along the Virgin River. This river has some oomph to it and people go tubing along it in the spring. At this point the flow is somewhat gentle. We pass a number of serious hikers that have already done the trail and are heading for their next adventure. Once done, we hope on the shuttle and go to “Big Bend”. There is a park ranger located there. She is answering questions. One visitor is from Holland and was giving the ranger a run for her money. The visitor was also giving her husband a run for his money. He was taking pictures of some climbers hundreds of feet up and his wife clapped her hands, commanding him to come near her. I have to try that with Dennis. Not. We saw a couple of wild turkeys at this stop as well. But enough about Dennis. lol

Rock climbers are attracted to Zion because of the vertical walls and the sandstone composition of the rock. It is easier to pound in the anchors into cracks they find. Once at the top of the mountain, they come back down on traditional hiking trails.

We decided to forgo the shuttle and walk to the next stop, only .5 mile away. We took a few pictures of the shuttle buses going up and down the hills as we walk. We saw some wildflowers as we walked as well.

The next two stops are “Weeping Rock” and “Grotto”. There are a couple trails along the Virgin River as well as some incredibly difficult trails up the sides of the mountains. We also spotted two ambulances near one of the trailheads. The EMT said it wasn’t a serious injury but they have had some significant injuries on this trail. I think I’ll pass on this one.

Next stop is the Zion Lodge. There are some great trails here, including one that has a neat walking bridge of the Virgin River. Every direction you turn, there is another photo op. We have been told that in October, Zion is loaded with people, leaf looking. There are so many deciduous trees in the Park, it must be a gorgeous place to visit and photograph.

After walking, we stop at the lodge and enjoy a great lunch at outside tables with a beautiful view of the Zion Mountains. What a country. We re-board the shuttle and stop at “Court of the Patriarchs”. This might be my favorite. We take a short but steep trail to a high vantage point. There we get a great view of three peaks, named after biblical figures, Abraham, Isaac and Jacob.

Zion is really the inverse of the Grand Canyon. While at the Grand Canyon, most visitors walk around the rim, looking down at the incredible rock formations, at Zion you are at the bottom, looking up at mountains that have the same look as the Canyon. The Zion Park brochure talks about how the Park was created by water’s erosion over thousands and thousands of years. Explorer John Wesley Powell said about Zion, “All this is the music of waters.” Powell also explored the Grand Canyon and one of the points is named after him. The study of the layers of rock, which form the mountains in the Park, is called Stratigraphy.

We make one more stop at Canyon Junction. Once again, the Virgin River is carving a path through the rock. I notice some cactus flowers growing by the side of the river and incorporate them into a vista of the rock around me.

We get back to the visitors’ center and get back to the motor home. We are heading east now, going to Bryce Canyon, 60 miles away. Now, we are going to head through the tunnel. Before we get to the tunnel entrance, we have to ascend about 2,000 feet through a series of switchbacks. We would not want to drive this road in the dark. There are NO guardrails! When we get near the tunnel entrance, the ranger stops us and explains that it will be about three minutes. He talks with someone on a walkie-talkie. About two minutes later a lone car comes through and the driver hands the ranger a baton of sorts. That is the indicator that this driver is the last person heading west on the road. It is now our turn to enter the tunnel. Yikes, now we know why they measure the width and height of your vehicle. It is narrow and low. Going through the middle, straddling both lanes is still nerve-wracking. Once through, the rock has a different appearance. The coloration was more yellow than red. It showed more pronounced erosion marks. One monolith was called Checkboard Mesa, with criss cross erosion cuts in the mountain. It almost looked like heavy equipment used to cut into mountains, creating highways had been used on the mountainside. In fact, Mother Nature did all the work. When you look at the picture, it looks like shredded wheat.

We continue our drive to Bryce Canyon. We look forward to seeing another one of the National Parks of the Grand Circle tomorrow. Car & Driver Magazine has called Utah's Highway 12 from Bryce Canyon National Park to Capitol Reef National Park "the most scenic drive in America". We look forward to it!

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